Posts mit dem Label woodgas filters / Holzgasfilter werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label woodgas filters / Holzgasfilter werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen

30. Dezember 2014

running engine with unfiltered woodgas ???

Maybe It was a little strange idea over the Christmas holidays .....

Why should hassle with the woodgas filtering  ??? 
 
If you can produce the same gas which is almost free of debris you do not need more filters?

Call me crazy :-) 

For this reason, I did a test today.

First I installed a glass tube just behind the gas cooler. So i can now visually view the gas flow. Not the best solution for a gas analysis. But unfortunately I do not have a meter to measure particles in the gas stream. If anyone has a good source for such a device just tell me.
The gasifier was started.


After 10 minutes, something happens in the glass tube:


 It collected condensation on the inside of the tube. The gas was cooled by the gas cooler down to 15°C and the water condensed out. If really large quantities are in the gas, the condensation should change color. What does not happen, however, the tube remained clear and transparent and that although without a filter!


After cleaning the glass tube, I rebuild it and started the Honda generator with this "unfiltered GAS" and some stomach pains  .....


 The generator ran pretty exactly 5 hours with a load of 850 to 2050W. I changed permanently the current output. To see whether the condensation in the glass tube during load variations discolored.
But it changed nothing. The glass tube was always good Transparent and wet with condensation from the inside.

After 5 1/2 hours the test was terminated.

I wanted for the next test still put a swimming pool filter as a security filter in between. If you have further what should come through.

What do you think we can assume that this gas the engine does not hurt?

Suggestions and discussions in the forum, I would be delighted.
 
 
regards Pascal
 
 

20. Juli 2014

A new filter and a new pyrotouch

Hi All,

New Filter design, First part of the video.

I just posted a video of a test of my new filter setup. The previous filter a combination of cokes coal/woo/stainless steel shavings works well but created Too much presure drop. Also It was a real mess this coals SS shavings ... ugly smell and difficult to clean or to dispose.
This filtersetup is far more lighter in aplication and has very little pressure drop. Off coarse I have tested it only for 2.5 hours so I can not tell how fast it will pack up with dirt.

New pyrotouch/kompaktor/agitator. Second part of the video.

A DriZzLeR beeing a gasifier working in drip feed need to be feed the least possible amount of fuel. Also the flaming pyrolyse zone should be kept very shallow and always at the same level. This is easy if you have a constant load; then just DriZzle in on time interval. But coupled on a generator in island mode with various laod demands and thus various fuel consumption, on should have some kind of a level sensing device to feed more under heavy load and less in idle load. The Pyrotouch/kompaktor works fine with dense fuel such as pellets. With Woodchips the constant hitting the fuel, even if only very little force, is kompakting the reduction  too much and after some hours the reduction is packed densely and the gasifier stops breathing.
Also when DriZzling in pellets the distribute fine all over the flaming pyrolyse. Woodchips are falling down in one chute and pile up on one side of the fuel tube. The other side gets no wood and burns empty with as result a big hollow burn. So the Pyrotouch should have one more function exstra, an agitator and leveling function to make an even and level flaming zone. In the second part of the video I show an attempt to achieve this goal. Unfortunatly the mikroswitch beeing too close to the hot zone melted. Adaptations are needed But the principe seems to work.

Have a look in this video, subscribe, advise and comment




Luk

Bagfilter cleanout cannon / Sackfilter Abreinungskanone

 There are many different ways to clean a filter. This air gun creates a back pressure through the clean gas outlet. Thus begin the filter bags to vibrate. By vibration of the filter bags of the filter cake fall down into the collecting container. After cleaning the filter, you can help. Nothing filters better than the filter cake. You should rebuild these light cake. This can be done by precoating the filter bag. Through the raw gas input a precoating powder will supplied. This Precoating powder lays down on the fabric and the filter can not wear out so quickly. Since the particles can not penetrate into the filter bag. They will be retained by the filter cake.


The gun is build with a fire extinguisher. This is the pressure tank.
Approved up to 15bar pressure sufficient for the cannon. Behind it comes a tee. Side of this tee sits the compressed air inlet to fill. This input is opened by a magnetic valve 1/8". On the tee sits a 1" magnetic valve. The tank is filled up till 8 bar are reached. Then the filling valve is closed. After, the tank is loaded. Now clean off the filter is very simple. Just open the 1" magnetic valve. After cleaning the 1"valve is closed again and the pressure tank is filled again.


Comments and critics directly in the Blog are welcome. 

   


  
Es gibt viele verschiedene Möglichkeiten einen Filter zu reinigen. Diese Luftkanone erzeugt einen Gegendruck durch den Reingas Ausgang. Dadurch fangen die Filtersäcke an zu vibrieren. Durch die Vibration der Filtersäcke fällt der Filterkuchen nach unten in den Sammelbehälter. Nach der Abreinigung kann man den Filter helfen. Nix filtert besser als der Filterkuchen. Man sollte diesen leichten Kuchen wiederaufbauen. Das kann man durch precoating des Filtersackes erreichen. Durch den Rohgas Eingang wird ein precoatingpowder zugeführt. Dieses Precoatingpowder legt sich auf das Gewebe und der Filter kann nicht so schnell verschleissen. Da die Partikel nicht mehr in den Filtersack eindringen können. Sie werden vom Filterkuchen gehalten werden. 

Die Kanone besteht aus einem Feuerlöscher. Dieser ist der Druckspeicher.
Zugelassen bis 15bar Druck völlig ausreichend für die Kanone. Dahinter kommt ein T-Stück. An diesem T-Stück sitzt seitlich der Druckluft Eingang zum befüllen. Dieser Eingang wird über ein Magnetventil 1/8 geöffnet. Auf dem T-Stück sitzt dann ein 1" Magnetventil. Der Druckspeicher wird befüllt, bis 8bar erreicht sind. Dann wird das Einfüllventil geschlossen. Danach ist der Druckspeicher geladen. Um jetzt den Filter abzureinigen wird einfach das 1" Ventil geöffnet. Nach der Abreinigung wird das 1" Ventil wieder geschlossen und der Druckspeicher wird erneut befüllt.


Kommentare und Kritik direkt im Blog sind erwünscht.